If you’re a fan of Nico, our Köln-style beer, this weekend away should be on your bucket list. Cologne is famous for Kölsch, its signature top-fermented, crisp, and refreshing beer, served in small 200ml glasses known as 'Stangen.'
Over the weekend, the Orbit Beers team visited some of the best Kölsch breweries and bars in Cologne, including St Peters Brauhaus, Brauerei Päffgen, Schreckenskammer, Gaffel, and the microbrewery Braustelle - where the head brewer kindly gave us a tour of their brew kit.
Päffgen Brauerei – A Historic Start
Päffgen was the perfect introduction to Cologne’s beer culture and is Cologne's oldest independent Kölsch brewery, founded in 1883 and still operating at its original location in the Friesenviertel. As soon as you step inside, you’re greeted by the aroma of fresh beer and a lively, no-nonsense atmosphere. The brewery itself retains its historic charm, with a beer hall that once saw horse-drawn carts delivering malt and hops.
In the past, brewers not only crafted the beer but also served it, embodying a full-time role that fostered a close-knit brewery community in the city. Päffgen Brewery is known for its dedication to tradition and continues to brew its Kölsch using time-honoured methods. Unlike many modern breweries, it serves its Kölsch straight from traditional wooden barrels, without artificial carbonation. The barrels are transported directly from the cold store to the bar, tapped manually, and served fresh by the Köbes.
Schreckenskammer – A Hidden Gem
Schreckenskammer is a more low-key spot, slightly off the beaten track but well worth the visit. The name translates to "Chamber of Horrors," which might sound intimidating, but inside, you’ll find a cosy and authentic local tavern.
We stood at the small bar (as we weren’t eating) and it was a great spot to absorb the atmosphere and watch the Köln-style service close-up. Their Kölsch had a mild bitterness, soft carbonation, and a crisp, dry finish. With a friendly crowd and brilliant beer, this was one of our favourite stops.
St. Peters Brauhaus – A Kölsch Institution
No Kölsch pilgrimage is complete without a visit to St. Peters Brauhaus. Located in a charming historic building, the atmosphere was warm, lively, and traditional, with wooden interiors, stained glass ceilings, and friendly Köbes (waiters) swiftly replacing our empty glasses with fresh Kölsch.
This place had gone to town on their carnival decorations and we had traditional plates of pork knuckle and currywurst with their house Kölsch which was smooth and malty. Pairing perfectly with a plate of Himmel un Ääd, a local dish made with mashed potatoes, apples, and black pudding as well as apple strudels and custard!
Braustelle – A craft brewery doing things differently
To round off the day, we stopped by Braustelle, Cologne’s pioneering craft brewery, and one of the smallest in the city. While Kölsch dominates the city, Braustelle experiments with different styles, offering a unique contrast to the more traditional beer culture.
Their interpretation of Kölsch had a modern twist, unfiltered and slightly hoppier than the others we tried over the weekend. They are also one of the few places brewing an Altbier in Köln as the brewmaster is actually from Düsseldorf. It was a refreshing way to end the day and see how Cologne’s beer scene is evolving with a generous tour of the site given by the owner and Master Brewer Peter Esser.
Cologne’s Kölsch culture is unlike any other beer experience. The small glasses ensure your beer is always fresh, the friendly Köbes make sure you’re never empty-handed, and each brewery offers its own take on this classic style. If you’re planning a beer trip, a weekend in Cologne should be high on your list!
If you can't get there soon enough, we're hosting our next Nico Night on Friday 28th March. A Koln Drinking Experience in London. A fitting celebration of Cologne drinking culture, there will be table service, Köbes, Kranz, and non-stop Nico stangen!
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